The clouds break and the pews shake
Finding myself legless at the bottom of a ditch was neither the beginning nor the end of this story. Beginnings and ends are arbitrary anyway, the end of this story is the beginning of another.
The beginning of this end was on a foggy August morning at London’s Gatwick airport. I dashed in late for a flight to JFK, shouldering my way through the queues. An overbooked flight and a meaningless title got me upgraded to first class, an exceptional turn of events by any measure. As I strolled down the jet way, head held high, I looked forward to an eight hour flight full of hot towels, crisp English stewardesses in short skirts, rare steak and all the free booze I could drink.
I sank contendedly into my La-Z-Boy of a seat and prepared myself for the lavished attentions of British Airways. Relaxed as we taxied and took to the leaden English skies and promptly passed out.
Because. Because I had started the trip to Heathrow that morning the way that I started any trip. Hell, started any day. I had started it with a medicinal dose of ethanol. But this day, a travel day, meant that that dose needed to be increased. To deal with the stress. So, I had spent the entirety of the bus trip to the airport fortifying myself with liquid courage. Drinking away the tremors. Drinking away the tedium. Drinking away the inconvenience of sobriety.
But on that morning, I misjudged. Misunderestimated, as a wise man once said. And I had spent my first, and to this day only, first class trip in a drunken coma. Or in blackout. I still don’t know which.
I came to with a squeeze of a shoulder and the exhortation to return my seat to its full upright position. The haze in my head began to clear with the announcement that we were beginning our descent into JFK and with that descent, the descent of my mood. The disappointment that I had wasted eight hours of luxury quickly gave way to the shame that always accompanied these kind of unforseen alcoholic accidents. They were becoming increasingly and, when I let myself admit it, disturbingly more frequent.
My final destination was Ithaca, where I had been sent for a fortnight to do some business. Business that I managed to fit in between hours spent alone in a dirty flat systematically working my way through countless bottles of cheap bourbon. When I came to every morning, I finished off the stale amber liquid on my bedside table. Liquid occasionally fortified with protein in the form of drowned flying insects who no doubt enjoyed their final moments. My day properly started, I would muddle through my work for the day before returning to the flat, grilling a steak and tucking in for an evening of anasthetic drinking. At some point in the evenings I lost consciousness and fell into a blank dreamless sleep. I would come to in the black predawn and repeat.
I had never visited Ithaca, New York before. But I couldn’t summon the energy to explore the place at all. That was where I was at. Paralysis. All I could do, all I wanted to do was to drink. I didn’t want to drink with other people, didn’t want to go to bars. I wanted to be left alone to drink to oblivion. To drink to quiet my head and the voices therein. The voices that were becoming increasingly shrill in their insistence that something was just not right with the way my life was going. I spent two weeks with the only companion whose friendship I really valued. Two weeks sat in that flat, trying to drown in a bottle of whiskey.
Until my last day in New York. I went to Cooperstown.
I went to Cooperstown because I grew up with a love for baseball. And baseball always took me back to a time before things had gone so wrong. A trip to Cooperstown, to the National Baseball Hall of Fame, then would be a pilgrimage to a more innocent time. It would be the thing to shake me out of this funk, to get me back on the right track again.
Except it wasn’t. Because I started the trip to Cooperstown that morning the same way I started any trip. The same way I started every day. And I spent the long drive topping up. Keeping my blood alcohol level high enough to hold off the shakes. Not staying buzzed or happy, but just maintaining. It was the only way I could do anything anymore and while recognizing that driving across upstate New York in a state of mild intoxication was a questionable decision, I considered it safer than the alternative.
When I got to Cooperstown it quickly became clear that I wouldn’t find what I was looking for. Wandering the halls of the Hall, I felt numb. Empty. I watched fathers and sons enjoying a day out together, immersed in the arcanity of the American game. I watched old men trudging happily down memory lane. I watched groups of school children, soaking up chunks of a nation’s history. And I felt nothing. I never felt anything anymore other than an unbearable need that could never be sated.
I left after an hour or so. Feeling the itch, the need. There was Belgian style brewery just down the road from Cooperstown that I wanted to hit before heading back to Ithaca. And there was a fifth of bourbon under the front seat of my rental.
MP3: The Felice Brothers “Cooperstown”
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Image credits:
“Yellow Breasted Crazy Bird Leaving His Tree” – Americo Salazar
The Felice Brothers’ “Yonder Is The Clock” is available from
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